Chardonnay Renaissance

One of the most interesting movements in wine has been the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) mantra. According to these wine drinkers, Chardonnay became a boring and over oaked wine and any wine that was not a Chardonnay was a better choice.

Now I can agree that many Chardonnay wines were over oaked in the past, but a majority of today’s Chardonnays’ show restrained oak and more fruit. Chardonnay is one of the most planted vines in the world and its fruit profiles include orchard fruit such as apple, pear and peach, or more tropical fruit such as pineapple, mango and melon. Burgundy whites, including Chablis, can also display mineral components. The best examples come from France (especially Burgundy), California, Australia and New Zealand. BC also produces good Chardonnays’ although excellent examples are a bit more difficult to obtain.

What does aging or fermenting wine in oak barrels do to white wine? It adds extra flavours and bouquets such as vanilla, spice, cedar and toast. Other flavours are developed from a secondary fermentation that adds a caramel and butterscotch profile. Chardonnay can be a full bodied white so it can match well with full flavoured fish and poultry, but make sure to serve the Chardonnay at the right temperature at around 12 to 14 degrees Celsius, or about 45 minutes removed from the fridge.

I’ve put together a list of my current favourites that all have different styles but great flavours. The first four wines retail for $15 to $22 and the Chablis is slightly over $40.

A super value is Two Jokers 2006 from South Australia. It is an example of a well balanced Chardonnay with just a hint of vanilla and toast. Fruit aromas include melon, peach and pear. Quite full bodied, it ends in a clean and refreshing finish.

If you are looking for a smooth and buttery Chardonnay from the Okanagan, look no further than the newly released 2006 Kettle Valley Chardonnay hailing from the Naramata Bench near Penticton. This one is a blend of caramel and butterscotch with the attractive fruit flavours of apricot, melon, pineapple and ripe pear. Match this wine with roast, poultry, firm cheeses or full flavoured seafood dishes.

Another winner from the Naramata is Township 7’s 2006 Chardonnay. The use of spicy American oak and mellower French oak result in nut, spice, caramel and vanilla nuances. Dominant are green apple, pear and peach matched to a smooth and full bodied mouth feel. This wine should age well for the next five years or so, but it is ready to drink right now.

Wines from Chile continue to improve with such wineries as Anakena leading the way. The Anakena Reserva Chardonnay 2006 displays predominately tropical fruit; mango, pineapple, lime and grapefruit. Oak use is again restrained adding another layer of flavour mainly in the form of vanilla. Full bodied, it continues to a long satisfying finish.

The list would not be complete without a mention of a French Chardonnay. The Louis Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru, Les Fourneaux 2004 has all the hallmarks of a quality Chablis. Clean, fresh and complex this Chablis leads with aromas, bouquet and flavours of apple, pear, toast and vanilla. It offers a touch of white floral and an interesting minerality that is typically found in Chablis wines. It is a winning combination with shellfish such as oysters and lobster.

I enjoy the newer styles of Chardonnay that seem to match the right touches of oak with some nice fruit and mineral components, so I think I may start a ABPG movement (Anything But Pinot Grigio) for awhile and enjoy a good glass of Chardonnay, I hope you can join me!