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Saturday, February 6, 2010

Okanagan winemaker has hundreds of years of experience

Small, high quality wineries continue to bear fruit in the Okanagan. One of the emerging wineries that stand out among the competition is 8th Generation Vineyard located in Summerland which only began releasing wines in 2007.

I recently spoke to Bernd Schales, owner, vineyard manager and winemaker at 8th Generation. Bernd is the 8th generation of winemakers that can trace their wine origins to Germany in the 18th century. He attended University in Germany specializing in viticulture and oenology. Bernd and his wife Stefanie moved to the Okanagan a few years ago and have put 8th Generation firmly on the wine map.

According to Bernd, the key to the high quality and success of the vineyard is the hands on control from the vineyard to the winemaking process. He grows and owns all his own grapes so he knows exactly what he is dealing with when the grapes arrive to the winery at harvest. The winery only produces about 2300 cases of wine per year from 15 acres of well tended vines.
I was fortunate to taste the wines of 8th Generation a few weeks ago and here are my observations. We begin the tasting with the 2007 Chardonnay. One third barrel fermentation adds a full mouth feel and creamy, leesy character. Up front honeydew melon, peach and green plum notes followed by a hint of vanilla. It is a beautifully balanced wine with a subtle, brioche finish.

The 2008 Pinot Gris is slightly reminiscent of an Alsatian Pinot Gris. Bright, clean fruit followed by a smooth, creamy mid palate. Apple, pear and a touch of anise rounds out this dry, well crafted wine.

The 2008 Classic Riesling is an off-dry style wine with generous honey, peach and lemon lime notes. The sugar to acid balance is perfect; it dances on the tongue. This wine opens up on the mid palate to a long and luscious finish. Look to age this wine as it will develop classic diesel and caramel fragrances.

The sweeter 2008 Riesling is a tropical delight; mango, tangerine and pineapple followed by a sweet and tangy honeyed finish. The best glass of sweet Riesling you’ve ever tasted.

The red line up begins with the 2008 Pinot Noir. Dark cherry, earthy aromas, dark chocolate and spice persist on the finish. It’s a well crafted BC Pinot with an elegant acid to tannin balance.

The 2007 Merlot contains some enticing plum, black currant and spicy nuances. A fresh style of wine, I note some lifted vegetal notes that compliment this wines bouquet.

The 2007 Syrah hints at an old world style. It features tons of juicy dark fruit, plum, pepper and liquorice overtones with a refreshing sense of acidity. Syrah from the valley is improving every year and this example shows why.

These wines are in limited quantity available at private retail stores, restaurants and of course at the winery.
As for the future of 8th Generation, Bernd tells me that the focus will always be on quality. However in twenty years one thing may change when Bernd contemplates retiring. His children may rename the vineyard 9th Generation.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Champagne Tastes on a Sparkling Budget

The romance of Champagne is undeniable. True Champagne from France is by far a superior wine loaded with complex flavours and aromas, and those fine little tiny bubbles that add the finesse to Champagne are rarely found outside the region. So if you are a rock star or a recent lotto winner go ahead and stock up on the best Champagnes’ money can buy. If you don’t fall into the above category don’t despair there are other sparkling wines available that won’t hit your wallet so hard.
There are a few clues to finding that good bottle of sparkling. The first is to try to find a label that states that the wine was produced using the traditional method used in Champagne. The label will read “Method Tradtionale” or” Methode Champonoise”. This indicates that the bottle underwent secondary fermentation in the bottle instead of adding carbon dioxide gas on the bottling line. The re-fermentation in the bottle results in the tiny bubbles in your stomach instead of the big bubbles which fill your tummy with lots of gas! Sparkling wine is made from a dry to sweet version so find the sweetness level that you enjoy. Brut on the label means dry and Demi- Sec translates into a medium sweet version.
Search for wines that use some of the grapes used in Champagne such as Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Value sparkling wines are found in Italy, Germany, Spain, Australia and California. So let’s take a look at some underrated sparkling wines for under 25 dollars that any host would be proud to serve this holiday season.
Italian’s name their sparkling wines Frizzante or Processo , both are refreshing with lots of fruit and creamy flavours. A stand out for me is Andreola Verdiso Frissante from Vinea Wine Imports. Green apple, peach and creamy peach flavours support a full flavour profile and loads of tiny bubbles. If you enjoy a sweeter version try the Martini Asti sparkling from a recognized and famous region in Italy. It’s 7% alcohol and the sweet fruit profile guarantee an easy drinking experience.
Australia is the home of Bimbadgen Ridge Sparkling Semillon. It begins with a tangy fruit essence and ends with a honey and rich, toasty finish, ideal for bringing in the New Year. A popular sparkling wine cocktail, Kir Royale is composed of a base sparkling wine and a few drops of Cassis Liqueur. I recommend the Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay with its’ apple and peach profile; dry and crisp it lends itself well to mixing. Australia in general produces some well made value sparkling so experiment and try a few for yourself.
Spain is home to a large sparkling wine industry. The tried and true Seguras Viudas uses traditional Spanish grapes to produce a baked apple and mineral based wine with loads of toast and biscuit, ending with a soft and creamy finish. It is perfect for brunch time Mimosas, which are a mix of three parts

Finding value wines easy with a few simple tips

Did you know there are over 600,000 different wines for sale around the world? Even if you were to try three wines every day it would take over five hundred years to try them all. The number one question I get from wine drinkers is how to find a good bottle of wine at a fair price?

Wine brands that consumers recognize can be good wines at a reasonable price, but remember it takes marketing and advertising dollars to build a brand and that cost is reflected in the final price. Value wines are the ones to search out, but what exactly is a value wine? A value wine is a wine that displays good flavour and balance at a lower price than a comparable bottle. I’ll give you an example; Bottle A and Bottle B have similar characteristics, good flavour and balance. Bottle A is $12, bottle B is $20; obviously Bottle A is a better value.

How do we compare different wines? The first thing is to take your time and focus on the aromas and flavours of the wine. Wines that mimic fruits, berries or flowers are desirable. The smell, taste and look of the wine must be clean and attractive. The different components must be in harmony or balance with each other such as alcohol and sweetness, acidity in whites or tannins in red. Once you have observed these qualities, you are ready to judge whether this wine is good. Your taste is the most important factor, if you don’t like the taste of Cabernet Sauvignon no matter how good it is you won’t enjoy it.

The first thing to do is to experiment with different wines to find the ones you enjoy the most. You can then seek out value wines from around the world. Luckily, there are a few large wine regions around the world that specialize in different wines at the best price.

Chile is renowned for value wines. They have developed modern wine making technology and skills on a vast level. They have almost 400,000 acres of vineyards, compared to the total for BC at only 5,000 acres. Wine varietals to look for include; Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere. Pinot Noir production also looks promising in the coming years.

Spain has the most vineyards per acreage in the world at 2.9 million acres. The past years have seen a modernization and investment in equipment and viticulture practises. Red wines are their strong points as most of the country has the heat, soils and sunlight hours required for red wine production. Red wines that are recommended include: Temparillo, Monastrell, Syrah, and Grenache (also named Granacha in Spain). Also look for a smooth and flavourful grape named Bobal which is sometimes used in blended wines. Search for a DO label (Denominacion de Origen) to ensure a quality Spanish wine.

Italy is known by everyone as a food and wine loving country, and at over 2 million acres has the largest variety of grape vines grown in the world. Unfortunately this leads to a bit of a problem when seeking out value wines as the typical wine names we recognize are absent in Italy. Therefore, search for wines that have IGT status on the label as they are usually an indication of good value wines. In the south of Italy look for Negroamaro or Nero D’Avola wines which have proven to be a good choice and are priced at about $12-$14 a bottle.

These are a few regions that contain value wines, but by all means is not a complete list. Take some time to go on your own wine adventure around the world and discover the wines that you enjoy, I promise you the trip will be worth it!

Chardonnay Renaissance

One of the most interesting movements in wine has been the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) mantra. According to these wine drinkers, Chardonnay became a boring and over oaked wine and any wine that was not a Chardonnay was a better choice.

Now I can agree that many Chardonnay wines were over oaked in the past, but a majority of today’s Chardonnays’ show restrained oak and more fruit. Chardonnay is one of the most planted vines in the world and its fruit profiles include orchard fruit such as apple, pear and peach, or more tropical fruit such as pineapple, mango and melon. Burgundy whites, including Chablis, can also display mineral components. The best examples come from France (especially Burgundy), California, Australia and New Zealand. BC also produces good Chardonnays’ although excellent examples are a bit more difficult to obtain.

What does aging or fermenting wine in oak barrels do to white wine? It adds extra flavours and bouquets such as vanilla, spice, cedar and toast. Other flavours are developed from a secondary fermentation that adds a caramel and butterscotch profile. Chardonnay can be a full bodied white so it can match well with full flavoured fish and poultry, but make sure to serve the Chardonnay at the right temperature at around 12 to 14 degrees Celsius, or about 45 minutes removed from the fridge.

I’ve put together a list of my current favourites that all have different styles but great flavours. The first four wines retail for $15 to $22 and the Chablis is slightly over $40.

A super value is Two Jokers 2006 from South Australia. It is an example of a well balanced Chardonnay with just a hint of vanilla and toast. Fruit aromas include melon, peach and pear. Quite full bodied, it ends in a clean and refreshing finish.

If you are looking for a smooth and buttery Chardonnay from the Okanagan, look no further than the newly released 2006 Kettle Valley Chardonnay hailing from the Naramata Bench near Penticton. This one is a blend of caramel and butterscotch with the attractive fruit flavours of apricot, melon, pineapple and ripe pear. Match this wine with roast, poultry, firm cheeses or full flavoured seafood dishes.

Another winner from the Naramata is Township 7’s 2006 Chardonnay. The use of spicy American oak and mellower French oak result in nut, spice, caramel and vanilla nuances. Dominant are green apple, pear and peach matched to a smooth and full bodied mouth feel. This wine should age well for the next five years or so, but it is ready to drink right now.

Wines from Chile continue to improve with such wineries as Anakena leading the way. The Anakena Reserva Chardonnay 2006 displays predominately tropical fruit; mango, pineapple, lime and grapefruit. Oak use is again restrained adding another layer of flavour mainly in the form of vanilla. Full bodied, it continues to a long satisfying finish.

The list would not be complete without a mention of a French Chardonnay. The Louis Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru, Les Fourneaux 2004 has all the hallmarks of a quality Chablis. Clean, fresh and complex this Chablis leads with aromas, bouquet and flavours of apple, pear, toast and vanilla. It offers a touch of white floral and an interesting minerality that is typically found in Chablis wines. It is a winning combination with shellfish such as oysters and lobster.

I enjoy the newer styles of Chardonnay that seem to match the right touches of oak with some nice fruit and mineral components, so I think I may start a ABPG movement (Anything But Pinot Grigio) for awhile and enjoy a good glass of Chardonnay, I hope you can join me!

Cabernet Sauvignon - King of Reds

The Cabernet Sauvignon vine has its origins in southern France. It is a chance crossing of two other vines; Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Now Cabernet Sauvignon can be found in most wine producing countries around the world including the Okanagan valley. The northern area of the Okanagan is too cool for the growth of cabernet but the southern end of the valley between Oliver and Osoyoos and into the Simikameen Valley is ideal for this vine. The key to good cabernet in this part of the valley is to keep yields low so the subsequent fruit is more concentrated and fully ripened.

The vine produces small berries with tough skins. It results in the vine being very resistant to disease and mildew. Top quality cabernets’ contain higher levels of tannin, a natural preservative found in red wines, therefore these wines can be aged for decades which add complexity and develop new flavours. The textbook aromas, bouquet and taste of Cabernet Sauvignon can include black currant, cassis, black cherry, mint, leather, cigar box and cedar. The vine produces better fruit and fruiter wines in a warmer climate such as California and Australia. In cooler climates the resulting wines can often be less fruity and more vegetal with flavours of green pepper.

Many winemakers will age Cabernet Sauvignon in oak barrels to add extra dimension to the wines resulting in smoke, spice and cedar bouquets. These barrels are charred on the inside to add smoky and meaty extracts found in top quality examples. The wine is also used extensively in higher quality blended wines. Bordeaux wines, which can command prices of thousands of dollars per bottle, are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and some lesser known varietals. The term Meritage is used in North America to denote the blend of wines used in the Bordeaux fashion. In Australia the preferred varietal to blend with is Shiraz especially in the Barossa valley region of South east Australia.

Whichever manner in which it’s used, Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the best varietals in the world and is worth exploring at your local wine store. Take a look at a few recommended reasonably priced Cabs and enjoy with a thick steak or roast.

Wyndham Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Bin 444 from Australia offers a classic example of this varietal. Blackcurrant and cassis are seamlessly integrated with lively tannins and result in a full bodied full body style ideal for red meat recipes.

Cellar Rat 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon also from Australia is not a typical Aussie cab, smooth, fresh and fleshy with light raspberry and cherry essence, it sees no oak and is an ideal social party cab.

Hester Creek Reserve 2004, Cabernet Sauvignon is an Okanagan wine that delivers world class cabernet flavours. Produced from some of the oldest cabernet vines in the valley, it is a concentrated mélange of cherry, cassis, and dark fruit nicely balanced with smoky, spicy and cedar notes. This wine is full bodied and best enjoyed with a meal.

The Show 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon is a California wine that is a best seller as consumers are attracted by the full bodied, lush, black fruit with dollops of smoky, spicy extract on the finish. This one is quite smoky but balanced well with the softer rich fruit.

Errazuriz Estate 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of the international appeal of this varietal. Produced in Chile it displays lean, blackcurrant fruit and pronounced tannins mixed with a touch of warm vanilla finish.

Cooking with Wine

A reader asked me a few weeks ago to write a column about what types of wines to use when cooking up favourite recipes. I’m only too happy to oblige since I have had the privilege of working with top chefs across the country and learned a trick or two from them!

The reason wine is added or used in cooking is to enhance and add flavour without using extra salt or fat, and to add an extra dimension of flavour. The good news for people with a low tolerance for sulphites is that simmering removes sulphites from wine. Also simmering a dish with wine removes alcohol from the wine; after 30 minutes of simmering about 35% of the wine’s alcohol is all that remains. Wine is used as a marinade or as a cooking liquid but beware of cooking wines sold in supermarkets, they contain a high amount of salt and other additives you may not want in your dish. Do not add wine to a dish at the end of the cooking process, it needs to cook at least 5 to 10 minutes to blend into the dish, otherwise the wines’ strong flavour will overwhelm the recipe.

The general rule to use when purchasing wine for cooking is don’t add anything that you would not drink by itself. Cheap, poorly made wine will not help in adding flavour to a recipe, it is better not to use any at all. That doesn’t mean that you have to buy an expensive bottle, a well thought out $15 bottle will work out nicely, and you can drink a glass while cooking or enjoy it with your meal.

White wines are generally used for cream and cheese sauces or poultry and fish dishes. Reds are used for brown sauces and red meat recipes.

If a recipe calls for a dry white wine, consider a Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps a Carmen or Sendero from Chile. If you are cooking a spicy or bolder dish a Riesling/Gewürztraminer from Hardy’s of Australia will work well. Sauvignon Blanc works well with fresh herbs as it accents the flavours found in herbs. Avoid heavily oaked Chardonnay as this can overwhelm lighter dishes.

When the recipe calls for a dry red wine consider a Shiraz, Grenache or Merlot for full flavoured, longer simmering dishes. I suggest Las Rocas Garnacha, Spain, Nero del Nago, Italty or Rosemount Shiraz, Australia. To deglaze a pan or for pasta sauces look to lighter styles of wine. I love cooking with Chianti from Italy; it brings pasta sauces to life. I use basic Chianti such as Cecchi, or search for La Bastide from France.

Fortified wines are a great way to add intense and bold flavours to your sauces. They have a longer shelf life than table wines but make sure that they are still sound before adding them to your recipe. Many are available in 375 ml half sized bottles, ideal for cooking. Meat based casseroles and slow cookers are making a comeback and Ports are perfect for these types of foods. I use a LBV (Late Bottle Vintage) Port; any producer from Portugal will do just fine. Use an authentic dry Sherry when sautéing or adding to stews; a dry Olorosa Sherry works well. If you desire the flavours of the Mediterranean when sautéing use a splash of Pellegrino Marsala, its light fruit and caramel flavours will add punch to these dishes.

Remember that your meal is only as good as the ingredients, so use the above guidelines and bon appetite!

Exploring Carmenere Wines Are Rewarding

Merlot is a red wine that is a safe choice for most people; it’s fruity with low tannins and acid which make it soft, smooth and easy to drink. However many wine drinkers are now venturing out of their safe zone and are exploring new varietals and wine. I am asked quite frequently about the Carmenere (pronounced Carmen-AIR) grape and the type of flavours associated with this wine.

It is quite an interesting story. Carmenere was originally planted in Medoc, France over two hundred years ago. It was used primarily as a blending grape alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. In the 1850’s vine disease affected the region and the Carmenere grape never really made a comeback, today very little is grown anywhere in France. However the vine was imported to Chile where most of the Carmenere grape is found today. The vines love the sandy soils and the dry warm summers and Carmenere has found a successful place to grow and make good wines. Over 4000 hectares is planted in the Maipo Valley in Chile where dry conditions favour the growth of the Carmenere vine. To create a more structured and full bodied wine, Carmenere is sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile. A small amount of Carmenere is also grown in California and Washington.

Carmenere is, for the most part, a smooth wine due to manageable acid and tannin levels. Its’ profile includes red and dark berry flavours and spice. Many feature an attractive smoky cedar bouquet that is due to aging the wine in toasted oak barrels. The tannins are soft and the colour is rich and deep. Carmenere has a silky texture and is best drunk young, usually within five years of the vintage date. So don’t be intimidated and try it the next time you are selecting a bottle. To help you in searching out a Carmenere I have listed and described a few of my favourites, all found in the Chilean section of your local wine store and for fewer than 20 dollars.

Concho-y-toro is well known to Chilean wine lovers. They have produced a new wine named Winemakers’ Lot Carmenere, 2005. Only the best grapes selected every harvest make it to the winemakers series and the Carmenere is the first of this series. The wine features balanced flavours of black cherries, dark chocolate and smoky cedar. It’s a smooth wine with just enough tannin to structure the wine. This is a limited wine that won’t be around for a long time so make sure to try it soon.

Santa Ema, Barrel Reserve Carmenere, 2004 was named one of the top 100 wine values of the year by Wine Spectator. It is round with full flavoured extracted cherry and blackcurrant flavours. I enjoyed the hint of herbs and cocoa on the finish. Smooth and polished with a smoky, meaty texture this wine is a great value priced less than twenty dollars. Try it with roast poultry and pork dishes.

The well known and respected Chilean winery, Cremaschi Furlotti, has released its’ 2005 Carmenere. Here we have plums and blackberries on the nose and spice and soft tannins on the palate. Its’ medium to full bodied texture lends itself to beef dishes and especially BBQ.

Viu Manent, Reserve 2005 is a well made and balanced wine. The aromas of plums, raspberries and strawberries are intermingled with hints of herbs. Lush and round in the mouth the wine also has flavours of leather, earth and dark chocolate. Wine Spectator rates this wine 90 points out of 100. A good bargain for under 20 dollars.