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Saturday, February 6, 2010

Okanagan winemaker has hundreds of years of experience

Small, high quality wineries continue to bear fruit in the Okanagan. One of the emerging wineries that stand out among the competition is 8th Generation Vineyard located in Summerland which only began releasing wines in 2007.

I recently spoke to Bernd Schales, owner, vineyard manager and winemaker at 8th Generation. Bernd is the 8th generation of winemakers that can trace their wine origins to Germany in the 18th century. He attended University in Germany specializing in viticulture and oenology. Bernd and his wife Stefanie moved to the Okanagan a few years ago and have put 8th Generation firmly on the wine map.

According to Bernd, the key to the high quality and success of the vineyard is the hands on control from the vineyard to the winemaking process. He grows and owns all his own grapes so he knows exactly what he is dealing with when the grapes arrive to the winery at harvest. The winery only produces about 2300 cases of wine per year from 15 acres of well tended vines.
I was fortunate to taste the wines of 8th Generation a few weeks ago and here are my observations. We begin the tasting with the 2007 Chardonnay. One third barrel fermentation adds a full mouth feel and creamy, leesy character. Up front honeydew melon, peach and green plum notes followed by a hint of vanilla. It is a beautifully balanced wine with a subtle, brioche finish.

The 2008 Pinot Gris is slightly reminiscent of an Alsatian Pinot Gris. Bright, clean fruit followed by a smooth, creamy mid palate. Apple, pear and a touch of anise rounds out this dry, well crafted wine.

The 2008 Classic Riesling is an off-dry style wine with generous honey, peach and lemon lime notes. The sugar to acid balance is perfect; it dances on the tongue. This wine opens up on the mid palate to a long and luscious finish. Look to age this wine as it will develop classic diesel and caramel fragrances.

The sweeter 2008 Riesling is a tropical delight; mango, tangerine and pineapple followed by a sweet and tangy honeyed finish. The best glass of sweet Riesling you’ve ever tasted.

The red line up begins with the 2008 Pinot Noir. Dark cherry, earthy aromas, dark chocolate and spice persist on the finish. It’s a well crafted BC Pinot with an elegant acid to tannin balance.

The 2007 Merlot contains some enticing plum, black currant and spicy nuances. A fresh style of wine, I note some lifted vegetal notes that compliment this wines bouquet.

The 2007 Syrah hints at an old world style. It features tons of juicy dark fruit, plum, pepper and liquorice overtones with a refreshing sense of acidity. Syrah from the valley is improving every year and this example shows why.

These wines are in limited quantity available at private retail stores, restaurants and of course at the winery.
As for the future of 8th Generation, Bernd tells me that the focus will always be on quality. However in twenty years one thing may change when Bernd contemplates retiring. His children may rename the vineyard 9th Generation.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Champagne Tastes on a Sparkling Budget

The romance of Champagne is undeniable. True Champagne from France is by far a superior wine loaded with complex flavours and aromas, and those fine little tiny bubbles that add the finesse to Champagne are rarely found outside the region. So if you are a rock star or a recent lotto winner go ahead and stock up on the best Champagnes’ money can buy. If you don’t fall into the above category don’t despair there are other sparkling wines available that won’t hit your wallet so hard.
There are a few clues to finding that good bottle of sparkling. The first is to try to find a label that states that the wine was produced using the traditional method used in Champagne. The label will read “Method Tradtionale” or” Methode Champonoise”. This indicates that the bottle underwent secondary fermentation in the bottle instead of adding carbon dioxide gas on the bottling line. The re-fermentation in the bottle results in the tiny bubbles in your stomach instead of the big bubbles which fill your tummy with lots of gas! Sparkling wine is made from a dry to sweet version so find the sweetness level that you enjoy. Brut on the label means dry and Demi- Sec translates into a medium sweet version.
Search for wines that use some of the grapes used in Champagne such as Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Value sparkling wines are found in Italy, Germany, Spain, Australia and California. So let’s take a look at some underrated sparkling wines for under 25 dollars that any host would be proud to serve this holiday season.
Italian’s name their sparkling wines Frizzante or Processo , both are refreshing with lots of fruit and creamy flavours. A stand out for me is Andreola Verdiso Frissante from Vinea Wine Imports. Green apple, peach and creamy peach flavours support a full flavour profile and loads of tiny bubbles. If you enjoy a sweeter version try the Martini Asti sparkling from a recognized and famous region in Italy. It’s 7% alcohol and the sweet fruit profile guarantee an easy drinking experience.
Australia is the home of Bimbadgen Ridge Sparkling Semillon. It begins with a tangy fruit essence and ends with a honey and rich, toasty finish, ideal for bringing in the New Year. A popular sparkling wine cocktail, Kir Royale is composed of a base sparkling wine and a few drops of Cassis Liqueur. I recommend the Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay with its’ apple and peach profile; dry and crisp it lends itself well to mixing. Australia in general produces some well made value sparkling so experiment and try a few for yourself.
Spain is home to a large sparkling wine industry. The tried and true Seguras Viudas uses traditional Spanish grapes to produce a baked apple and mineral based wine with loads of toast and biscuit, ending with a soft and creamy finish. It is perfect for brunch time Mimosas, which are a mix of three parts

Finding value wines easy with a few simple tips

Did you know there are over 600,000 different wines for sale around the world? Even if you were to try three wines every day it would take over five hundred years to try them all. The number one question I get from wine drinkers is how to find a good bottle of wine at a fair price?

Wine brands that consumers recognize can be good wines at a reasonable price, but remember it takes marketing and advertising dollars to build a brand and that cost is reflected in the final price. Value wines are the ones to search out, but what exactly is a value wine? A value wine is a wine that displays good flavour and balance at a lower price than a comparable bottle. I’ll give you an example; Bottle A and Bottle B have similar characteristics, good flavour and balance. Bottle A is $12, bottle B is $20; obviously Bottle A is a better value.

How do we compare different wines? The first thing is to take your time and focus on the aromas and flavours of the wine. Wines that mimic fruits, berries or flowers are desirable. The smell, taste and look of the wine must be clean and attractive. The different components must be in harmony or balance with each other such as alcohol and sweetness, acidity in whites or tannins in red. Once you have observed these qualities, you are ready to judge whether this wine is good. Your taste is the most important factor, if you don’t like the taste of Cabernet Sauvignon no matter how good it is you won’t enjoy it.

The first thing to do is to experiment with different wines to find the ones you enjoy the most. You can then seek out value wines from around the world. Luckily, there are a few large wine regions around the world that specialize in different wines at the best price.

Chile is renowned for value wines. They have developed modern wine making technology and skills on a vast level. They have almost 400,000 acres of vineyards, compared to the total for BC at only 5,000 acres. Wine varietals to look for include; Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere. Pinot Noir production also looks promising in the coming years.

Spain has the most vineyards per acreage in the world at 2.9 million acres. The past years have seen a modernization and investment in equipment and viticulture practises. Red wines are their strong points as most of the country has the heat, soils and sunlight hours required for red wine production. Red wines that are recommended include: Temparillo, Monastrell, Syrah, and Grenache (also named Granacha in Spain). Also look for a smooth and flavourful grape named Bobal which is sometimes used in blended wines. Search for a DO label (Denominacion de Origen) to ensure a quality Spanish wine.

Italy is known by everyone as a food and wine loving country, and at over 2 million acres has the largest variety of grape vines grown in the world. Unfortunately this leads to a bit of a problem when seeking out value wines as the typical wine names we recognize are absent in Italy. Therefore, search for wines that have IGT status on the label as they are usually an indication of good value wines. In the south of Italy look for Negroamaro or Nero D’Avola wines which have proven to be a good choice and are priced at about $12-$14 a bottle.

These are a few regions that contain value wines, but by all means is not a complete list. Take some time to go on your own wine adventure around the world and discover the wines that you enjoy, I promise you the trip will be worth it!

Chardonnay Renaissance

One of the most interesting movements in wine has been the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) mantra. According to these wine drinkers, Chardonnay became a boring and over oaked wine and any wine that was not a Chardonnay was a better choice.

Now I can agree that many Chardonnay wines were over oaked in the past, but a majority of today’s Chardonnays’ show restrained oak and more fruit. Chardonnay is one of the most planted vines in the world and its fruit profiles include orchard fruit such as apple, pear and peach, or more tropical fruit such as pineapple, mango and melon. Burgundy whites, including Chablis, can also display mineral components. The best examples come from France (especially Burgundy), California, Australia and New Zealand. BC also produces good Chardonnays’ although excellent examples are a bit more difficult to obtain.

What does aging or fermenting wine in oak barrels do to white wine? It adds extra flavours and bouquets such as vanilla, spice, cedar and toast. Other flavours are developed from a secondary fermentation that adds a caramel and butterscotch profile. Chardonnay can be a full bodied white so it can match well with full flavoured fish and poultry, but make sure to serve the Chardonnay at the right temperature at around 12 to 14 degrees Celsius, or about 45 minutes removed from the fridge.

I’ve put together a list of my current favourites that all have different styles but great flavours. The first four wines retail for $15 to $22 and the Chablis is slightly over $40.

A super value is Two Jokers 2006 from South Australia. It is an example of a well balanced Chardonnay with just a hint of vanilla and toast. Fruit aromas include melon, peach and pear. Quite full bodied, it ends in a clean and refreshing finish.

If you are looking for a smooth and buttery Chardonnay from the Okanagan, look no further than the newly released 2006 Kettle Valley Chardonnay hailing from the Naramata Bench near Penticton. This one is a blend of caramel and butterscotch with the attractive fruit flavours of apricot, melon, pineapple and ripe pear. Match this wine with roast, poultry, firm cheeses or full flavoured seafood dishes.

Another winner from the Naramata is Township 7’s 2006 Chardonnay. The use of spicy American oak and mellower French oak result in nut, spice, caramel and vanilla nuances. Dominant are green apple, pear and peach matched to a smooth and full bodied mouth feel. This wine should age well for the next five years or so, but it is ready to drink right now.

Wines from Chile continue to improve with such wineries as Anakena leading the way. The Anakena Reserva Chardonnay 2006 displays predominately tropical fruit; mango, pineapple, lime and grapefruit. Oak use is again restrained adding another layer of flavour mainly in the form of vanilla. Full bodied, it continues to a long satisfying finish.

The list would not be complete without a mention of a French Chardonnay. The Louis Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru, Les Fourneaux 2004 has all the hallmarks of a quality Chablis. Clean, fresh and complex this Chablis leads with aromas, bouquet and flavours of apple, pear, toast and vanilla. It offers a touch of white floral and an interesting minerality that is typically found in Chablis wines. It is a winning combination with shellfish such as oysters and lobster.

I enjoy the newer styles of Chardonnay that seem to match the right touches of oak with some nice fruit and mineral components, so I think I may start a ABPG movement (Anything But Pinot Grigio) for awhile and enjoy a good glass of Chardonnay, I hope you can join me!

Cabernet Sauvignon - King of Reds

The Cabernet Sauvignon vine has its origins in southern France. It is a chance crossing of two other vines; Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Now Cabernet Sauvignon can be found in most wine producing countries around the world including the Okanagan valley. The northern area of the Okanagan is too cool for the growth of cabernet but the southern end of the valley between Oliver and Osoyoos and into the Simikameen Valley is ideal for this vine. The key to good cabernet in this part of the valley is to keep yields low so the subsequent fruit is more concentrated and fully ripened.

The vine produces small berries with tough skins. It results in the vine being very resistant to disease and mildew. Top quality cabernets’ contain higher levels of tannin, a natural preservative found in red wines, therefore these wines can be aged for decades which add complexity and develop new flavours. The textbook aromas, bouquet and taste of Cabernet Sauvignon can include black currant, cassis, black cherry, mint, leather, cigar box and cedar. The vine produces better fruit and fruiter wines in a warmer climate such as California and Australia. In cooler climates the resulting wines can often be less fruity and more vegetal with flavours of green pepper.

Many winemakers will age Cabernet Sauvignon in oak barrels to add extra dimension to the wines resulting in smoke, spice and cedar bouquets. These barrels are charred on the inside to add smoky and meaty extracts found in top quality examples. The wine is also used extensively in higher quality blended wines. Bordeaux wines, which can command prices of thousands of dollars per bottle, are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and some lesser known varietals. The term Meritage is used in North America to denote the blend of wines used in the Bordeaux fashion. In Australia the preferred varietal to blend with is Shiraz especially in the Barossa valley region of South east Australia.

Whichever manner in which it’s used, Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the best varietals in the world and is worth exploring at your local wine store. Take a look at a few recommended reasonably priced Cabs and enjoy with a thick steak or roast.

Wyndham Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Bin 444 from Australia offers a classic example of this varietal. Blackcurrant and cassis are seamlessly integrated with lively tannins and result in a full bodied full body style ideal for red meat recipes.

Cellar Rat 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon also from Australia is not a typical Aussie cab, smooth, fresh and fleshy with light raspberry and cherry essence, it sees no oak and is an ideal social party cab.

Hester Creek Reserve 2004, Cabernet Sauvignon is an Okanagan wine that delivers world class cabernet flavours. Produced from some of the oldest cabernet vines in the valley, it is a concentrated mélange of cherry, cassis, and dark fruit nicely balanced with smoky, spicy and cedar notes. This wine is full bodied and best enjoyed with a meal.

The Show 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon is a California wine that is a best seller as consumers are attracted by the full bodied, lush, black fruit with dollops of smoky, spicy extract on the finish. This one is quite smoky but balanced well with the softer rich fruit.

Errazuriz Estate 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of the international appeal of this varietal. Produced in Chile it displays lean, blackcurrant fruit and pronounced tannins mixed with a touch of warm vanilla finish.

Cooking with Wine

A reader asked me a few weeks ago to write a column about what types of wines to use when cooking up favourite recipes. I’m only too happy to oblige since I have had the privilege of working with top chefs across the country and learned a trick or two from them!

The reason wine is added or used in cooking is to enhance and add flavour without using extra salt or fat, and to add an extra dimension of flavour. The good news for people with a low tolerance for sulphites is that simmering removes sulphites from wine. Also simmering a dish with wine removes alcohol from the wine; after 30 minutes of simmering about 35% of the wine’s alcohol is all that remains. Wine is used as a marinade or as a cooking liquid but beware of cooking wines sold in supermarkets, they contain a high amount of salt and other additives you may not want in your dish. Do not add wine to a dish at the end of the cooking process, it needs to cook at least 5 to 10 minutes to blend into the dish, otherwise the wines’ strong flavour will overwhelm the recipe.

The general rule to use when purchasing wine for cooking is don’t add anything that you would not drink by itself. Cheap, poorly made wine will not help in adding flavour to a recipe, it is better not to use any at all. That doesn’t mean that you have to buy an expensive bottle, a well thought out $15 bottle will work out nicely, and you can drink a glass while cooking or enjoy it with your meal.

White wines are generally used for cream and cheese sauces or poultry and fish dishes. Reds are used for brown sauces and red meat recipes.

If a recipe calls for a dry white wine, consider a Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps a Carmen or Sendero from Chile. If you are cooking a spicy or bolder dish a Riesling/Gewürztraminer from Hardy’s of Australia will work well. Sauvignon Blanc works well with fresh herbs as it accents the flavours found in herbs. Avoid heavily oaked Chardonnay as this can overwhelm lighter dishes.

When the recipe calls for a dry red wine consider a Shiraz, Grenache or Merlot for full flavoured, longer simmering dishes. I suggest Las Rocas Garnacha, Spain, Nero del Nago, Italty or Rosemount Shiraz, Australia. To deglaze a pan or for pasta sauces look to lighter styles of wine. I love cooking with Chianti from Italy; it brings pasta sauces to life. I use basic Chianti such as Cecchi, or search for La Bastide from France.

Fortified wines are a great way to add intense and bold flavours to your sauces. They have a longer shelf life than table wines but make sure that they are still sound before adding them to your recipe. Many are available in 375 ml half sized bottles, ideal for cooking. Meat based casseroles and slow cookers are making a comeback and Ports are perfect for these types of foods. I use a LBV (Late Bottle Vintage) Port; any producer from Portugal will do just fine. Use an authentic dry Sherry when sautéing or adding to stews; a dry Olorosa Sherry works well. If you desire the flavours of the Mediterranean when sautéing use a splash of Pellegrino Marsala, its light fruit and caramel flavours will add punch to these dishes.

Remember that your meal is only as good as the ingredients, so use the above guidelines and bon appetite!

Exploring Carmenere Wines Are Rewarding

Merlot is a red wine that is a safe choice for most people; it’s fruity with low tannins and acid which make it soft, smooth and easy to drink. However many wine drinkers are now venturing out of their safe zone and are exploring new varietals and wine. I am asked quite frequently about the Carmenere (pronounced Carmen-AIR) grape and the type of flavours associated with this wine.

It is quite an interesting story. Carmenere was originally planted in Medoc, France over two hundred years ago. It was used primarily as a blending grape alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. In the 1850’s vine disease affected the region and the Carmenere grape never really made a comeback, today very little is grown anywhere in France. However the vine was imported to Chile where most of the Carmenere grape is found today. The vines love the sandy soils and the dry warm summers and Carmenere has found a successful place to grow and make good wines. Over 4000 hectares is planted in the Maipo Valley in Chile where dry conditions favour the growth of the Carmenere vine. To create a more structured and full bodied wine, Carmenere is sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile. A small amount of Carmenere is also grown in California and Washington.

Carmenere is, for the most part, a smooth wine due to manageable acid and tannin levels. Its’ profile includes red and dark berry flavours and spice. Many feature an attractive smoky cedar bouquet that is due to aging the wine in toasted oak barrels. The tannins are soft and the colour is rich and deep. Carmenere has a silky texture and is best drunk young, usually within five years of the vintage date. So don’t be intimidated and try it the next time you are selecting a bottle. To help you in searching out a Carmenere I have listed and described a few of my favourites, all found in the Chilean section of your local wine store and for fewer than 20 dollars.

Concho-y-toro is well known to Chilean wine lovers. They have produced a new wine named Winemakers’ Lot Carmenere, 2005. Only the best grapes selected every harvest make it to the winemakers series and the Carmenere is the first of this series. The wine features balanced flavours of black cherries, dark chocolate and smoky cedar. It’s a smooth wine with just enough tannin to structure the wine. This is a limited wine that won’t be around for a long time so make sure to try it soon.

Santa Ema, Barrel Reserve Carmenere, 2004 was named one of the top 100 wine values of the year by Wine Spectator. It is round with full flavoured extracted cherry and blackcurrant flavours. I enjoyed the hint of herbs and cocoa on the finish. Smooth and polished with a smoky, meaty texture this wine is a great value priced less than twenty dollars. Try it with roast poultry and pork dishes.

The well known and respected Chilean winery, Cremaschi Furlotti, has released its’ 2005 Carmenere. Here we have plums and blackberries on the nose and spice and soft tannins on the palate. Its’ medium to full bodied texture lends itself to beef dishes and especially BBQ.

Viu Manent, Reserve 2005 is a well made and balanced wine. The aromas of plums, raspberries and strawberries are intermingled with hints of herbs. Lush and round in the mouth the wine also has flavours of leather, earth and dark chocolate. Wine Spectator rates this wine 90 points out of 100. A good bargain for under 20 dollars.

Other Grape Types Worth Exploring

Someone asked me the other day about Malbec, the popular red from Argentina that sells for a bargain price. “Well, what is Malbec?”, they asked, “I’ve never heard of it before”. After explaining Malbec as an easy drinking red with typically red berry and spicy blackberry flavours, it occurred to me that many wine consumers never really travel away from the Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc wines because they don’t want to take a chance on purchasing a wine they may not enjoy. That’s unfortunate because there are some very good wines out there with labels and grape types you probably have never heard of before. So let’s explore a few of my favourites that are available at your local liquor and wine store.

We’ll begin of with the 2007 Finca Los Primos Malbec from Argentina. The Malbec grape originates from the Bordeaux region of France where it gradually fell into disfavour because the sometimes damp, cool fall climate did not ripen the grape successfully. It did however find the perfect growing conditions in dry, hot summer and fall of Argentina and is the now the country’s most popular red. This value wine costs less than twelve dollars and is well worth it. Polished cherry, floral, plum and blackberry fragrances glide to a smooth spicy finish. It’s soft and easy to drink a; perfect pasta or everyday dinner wine.

Bacchus is the Roman god of wine and also the name of a type of grape that grows quite well here in the cooler climate of BC. A few wineries produce Bacchus but my pick is the 2007 Bacchus from Arrowleaf Cellars in the North Kelowna region. These vines are over twenty years old so they are producing some outstanding mature fruit due to their roots digging deep into the different sub-strata of soils found in the vineyard. Clean and tangy, without oak aging the wine is a delightful mélange of apple, ripe pear and citrus essence. A well matched wine for white seafood or vegetarian dishes.

Summerhill Estate winery in the South Kelowna region has made the 2007 Ehrenfelser wine its flagship offering. This organic and pyramid aged wine is off dry and very approachable, revealing tropical mango, orange and pineapple extracts. It is advertised as a hot tub wine, but I can drink it anywhere!

Gray Monk winery nurtures a grape named Siegerrebe, a vine originally developed in Germany. It ripens very well each year in the cooler Kelowna region. The 2007 Siegerrebe is a mellow wine nicely balanced with nectarine, peach, mango and pineapple flavours. A touch of sweetness and a smooth silky finish combine to add to the overall experience. This wine drinks well with roast pork.

Another relatively unknown grape from Argentina is Macabeo. Macabeo is the most widely planted white wine grape in Argentina and a majority of the wine is consumed domestically. The 2006 Nazares Macabeo is fresh, light and dry with apple, pear and a touch of floral notes. It’s a steal at twelve dollars a bottle. Soft cheeses, seafood and light fish will work well with this wine.

There are a number of more fascinating grape varietals out there and many sell at reasonable prices. None of them rely on big advertising budgets so for most consumers they are out of the edge of mainstream purchasing decisions. So the next time you’re at the wine store don’t just grab the usual, be adventurous and try something new.

Eco-Friendly Wines Are Our Future

Sooner or later all businesses will have to react to the reality of global warming. Hopefully the wine industry will respond sooner, although a few wineries have already responded in a positive manner. Along with industry, consumers can make the choice to pull in the right direction. Today, we will look at some of the ways consumers and industry can make a difference.
Many of us have heard about the 100 mile diet; the average ingredient or beverage we use for our meals in North America travels about 1500 miles. In order to reduce shipping, and thereby carbon emissions, it is recommended we source and purchase our ingredients within 100 miles. Let me tell you I have tried and it is quite difficult. However the thought of how far this wine travels to get to me has begun to get me thinking and I believe that is a good starting point.
There are not too many wineries within 100 miles of the tri-cities; however there are fruit wineries and some grape wineries in the Lower Mainland and Langley. Domaine de Chaberton produces Bacchus, Madeleine Sylvaner and Ortega wines from vineyards at their Langley location, and Blue Heron and Fort Wine Company source their fruit from the Lower Mainland for their fruit wines. The fact is, however, over 90% of all grapes for BC wine production are grown in the Okanagan Valley well outside our 100 mile target. Wine from Australia travels 8000 miles so the 220 miles from the Okanagan seems to be the better choice. Washington, Oregon and California wine regions are a bit further but better than far away vineyards in Europe. So you see the idea, closer is better given the price and quality of the wine.
Wineries are doing their part to reduce the weight of glass bottles and reduce waste. Wolf Blass is leading the effort in BC and around the world with their 750 ml plastic bottle containers for the Bilyara Reserve Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The containers reduce waste by more than 85 percent compared to glass and divert less waste to landfills than traditional bottles. They also have a higher recycling recovery rate and are recycled into carpet fibre, t-shirts and automotive parts. But what about the quality? I have tasted both the Chardonnay and the Cabernet Sauvignon and found no “plastic taste”. The quality was good and the price reasonable. They have been tested by the most stringent quality assurance laboratories and were found to be completely safe.
Tetra packs and wine boxes have been around for awhile and usually contain basic wines. Many producers such as Peller Estates and Sawmill Creek produce these and they are much more environmentally friendly than regular glass bottles. They are space efficient, easier to ship and the container weight is reduced compared to bottles. Millions of pounds of shipping weight are reduced by the purchase of these container wines and that translates into thousands of saved litres of gas and emissions.
This is only a tiny step in the right direction; more wineries have to step up to the plate to make a difference. Winemaking has been a human skill developed over 8000 years, but more effort has to be made to protect the environment that grapes are grown in. I remember about twenty years ago a grape grower in California told me that his neighbouring vineyard managers were teasing him about the un-kept nature of his vineyards. He told me that when he stepped into their vineyards, vines were perfectly straight and there was a silence in the air, no insects, no animals, all had been sterilized and fertilized. His vineyards used natures cycle and was humming with insects and small animals which produced excellent grapes. It’s our future, how would you like to see it?

Everyday Wines for Everyday Meals

It’s amazing the amount of beer that is consumed this time of year. The playoffs and the summer-like weather have pushed beer sales to new heights. I may the only one who has a glass of wine while watching the playoffs and it got me thinking. There are some wines that seem to be easier drinking and match better to everyday foods and the type of snacks consumed during sport and general TV viewing, foods like nachos, wings, burgers and chips. These are the wines we should be drinking everyday at a price we can all afford.

Sunday dinners and special occasion meals always call for wine. There are so many other options for the daily meals that we enjoy. Why not enjoy a reasonable sparkling wine such as Prosecco? A light fruity Pinot Grigio or an off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer is a good everyday choice. Don’t worry about adding a bit of soda to your favourite white, or adding a bit of fresh juice to an inexpensive sparkler.

Wine also has many health benefits that may prevent cancer and extend your life. Red wine contains a substance called reveratrol which is a known to lower blood sugar and is being studied at universities around the world to understand its true healing potential.

Red wines are marvellous with slow cooked bbq or grilled foods that we enjoy most days during the summer and the rest of the year given our west coast weather. Rich, smoky Zinfandels and Shiraz are a perfect match to ribs smothered in bbq sauce. Grilled chicken and a full bodied Chardonnay will work wonders together. Burgers work well with fruity Merlots and Malbecs. Hot Dogs are great with Gewürztraminers and Riesling. Bring on the bbq and we’ll find a wine that delivers!

In the spirit of everyday foods and wine, I’ve reviewed and selected a few of my favourite selections that can be enjoyed this summer. All of these wines sell for less than $18 so you can enjoy a glass everyday.

One of my favourite summer whites from the Okanagan is the St. Hubertus Riesling 2007. Peach, citrus and apple flavours are in perfect harmony with the crisp slightly off dry style. This is a great bbq smokie or hot dog wine. Spicy chicken wings and nachos would also pair quite nicely with this Riesling.

Sumac Ridge Winery is one of the oldest and most established wineries in the Okanagan Valley. The Sumac Ridge Gewürztraminer 2007 displays rose, lychee and a touch of spice on the finish. Many Gewürztraminers are quite soft and lacking in acidity but this white shows some nice structure and delicate fresh finish. An ideal patio wine, it would fare well with light appetizers and bbq rotisserie chicken. Try with a splash of soda or mineral water to beat the summer heat.

A wine that really delivers for the price is St. Hallett’s Poacher’s Blend, Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from the Barossa valley, Australia. This outstanding blended wine delivers lively pineapple, melon and citrus notes with an amazing dry and flavourful finish. Think summer picnic wine; an ideal partner for chilled fried chicken or shrimp cocktail. This wine would also match very well with vegetarian foods.

Grilled and bbq red meats and burgers need red wine to bring out there flavours. A bbq go to wine is the Protocolo 2006 hailing from Spain. Bold and earthy with dark berry and spice, this full bodied and soft red is ideal for this summer.

So there you have a few of my favourites, but don’t stop there. Get out and explore wines for everyday not just special occasions!

High End Wines Take a Big Hit During Slow Economic Times

During the last few months, sales of wines over the twenty dollar mark have seen quite a downturn. This is, of course, the reaction of consumers cutting back on their spending especially on discretionary purchases such as wine. This shift will definitely impact the world of wine and there will be regions that benefit from the slowdown and those who won’t.

A region that may not benefit is the BC wine industry. On the positive side, the exposure of BC wines during the Winter Olympics may definitely help, although not too much BC wine is exported from BC. Many wines in BC are priced twenty dollars and more and consumers are shying away from this price point. BC wines, especially reds fewer than twenty dollars just can’t compete with such reds as quality Malbecs from Argentina priced at twelve dollars and less. In the last few weeks some BC wineries have dropped their prices of higher end wines as inventory sits in warehouses instead of restaurant wine cellars and consumers’ homes.

Other regions producing wines at higher price points may affected such as Oregon, Washington, Napa, New Zealand, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Piedmont. Prices for these regions may lessen in the next while and wine lovers who usually cannot afford these wines may discover their quality and unique place in the world of wine.

The big winners in this situation will be regions that over deliver quality for their price. One of the giants will be Argentina. They are producing quality wines that are flooding the market with ten to twelve dollar wines that deliver on all fronts. The top whites will include Chardonnay and Torrontes. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon are outstanding red values.

Argentina’s neighbour Chile will also benefit. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier lead the white category Pinot Noir, Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon will triumph in the red category.

Unfortunately Australia is suffering from two poorer vintages due to climate change and drought. They still, however, offer some amazing wines at competive prices. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon at the under twenty dollar price are some of the best red bargains in the world. Un-oaked Chardonnays’, the new daring of the white category, are a refreshing change from the old over oaked Chards from the past.

To start you off in finding these winning values I’ve reviewed a few of my latest favourites.

La Puerta Torrontes 2007, Argentina - The Torrontes grape is native to Argentina and due to recent careful growing of this grape is producing outstanding whites at super value pricing. The La Puerta is very fruity with citrus and tropical fruit flavours. Fresh and soft with just the right amount of acidity the finish is quite long for a value wine. A must for this summer!

La Puerta Malbec 2008, Argentina - The twin to the Torrontes is another example of a well made red at a great price. Showy plum, black currant and red cherry with a touch of spice and liquorice are on the finish. Smooth and easy drinking this is sure to be a big BBQ hit this summer.

Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2007, Chile - This wine will convert you to a rose lover. Citrus, light plum and strawberry notes wrapped around an elegant and full bodied palate. Serve lightly chilled with shrimp cocktail or seared tuna.

Mad Fish Shiraz, 2004 , Australia - Fresh, fleshy and juicy is how I would describe this wine from down under. Clean cherry, red currant and spice extract and wonderfully balanced. This wine is not your typical over extracted Australian fruit bomb so it is an ideal food wine for salmon, chicken and pork dishes.

Great Pinot Noirs’ Leave A Lasting Impression

It’s been a while since I’ve sampled amazing quality Pinot Noir. This week, however, I sampled many Pinot Noirs that impressed me a great deal. In this column we’ll find out more about this often mysterious grape and then list the Pinot Noir’s I‘ve tasted that are available in BC.

Great Pinot Noirs create lasting impressions in the memory. Its aroma and bouquet is often one of the most complex of all wines and can be intense with a ripe, strawberry, raspberry and black cherry aroma. The bouquet includes a sense of spiciness that reminds one of cinnamon, nutmeg and truffle. Tomato, mushroom, earthiness and a musky barnyard are also common descriptors for a typical Pinot Noir. It can be full-bodied and rich without being heavy and high in alcohol. The best examples are not acidic or tannic but smooth, silky and very well balanced.

Pinot Noir is a tough grape for winemakers to master because it ferments aggressively which could result in the wine lacking any fruity characteristics. The grape berry is thin skinned which creates a lighter red colour than other varietals such as Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon. Pinot Noir contains three to four times the amount of reversatol found in other red wines which aids in keeping the cardio vascular system healthy.

The Okanagan can produce some good examples of Pinot but the best examples are found in Burgundy, France, Oregon, California and New Zealand. These areas produce world class Pinot Noirs which are highly sought after by wine lovers around the world.

Here are some favourites that are available in BC that display all the great aromas and taste associated with Pinot Noir. These wines sell for about $40 and are available at BC Liquor stores and private wine shops.

New Zealand is known throughout the world as a top producer of Sauvignon Blanc. It is also generally known as a cool climate wine producing country so pinot grows well in three regions, Marlborough, Central Otago and Martinborough. Churton, Pinot Noir, 2006 hails from Marlborough and is loaded with black cherry, earthy spice and ripe raspberry extract. This medium bodied wine is perfectly balanced with fine tannins and a long caressing finish.

Hailing from Central Otago Gibbston Valley, Gold River Pinot Noir, 2007 introduces a sweet herbal and red berry and cherry aroma followed by a velvety smooth and earthy component. The acid levels in this wine are perfect and one of the best Pinots for the price I have tasted in a while. This wine is already sold out in New Zealand!

Another winner is Cristom Vineyards, Mt. Jefferson Pinot Noir, 2006 from Oregon. Full bodied, creamy and elegant this wine features a well balanced and lengthy finish. Rich fruit and a spicy edge round out this complex wine at an affordable price point.

The French still have the best Pinots in the world and the prices for top Burgundies can be prohibitive. That is why the Patrice Rion, Bourgogne, 2006 is a “value” Pinot Noir. Ripe raspberry and dark cherry flavors are introduced which leads to a slightly smoky and forest earth bouquet. All the components are here, balance and a mild yet complex finish.

Pinot Noirs are a perfect accompaniment to richer fish menus such as salmon and tuna. Also a delightful pairing with holiday poultry dishes with thick, rich, meaty sauces and herbal based stuffing. Enjoy a few special Pinot Noirs this season - it’s an experience you won’t soon forget.

Two Different Faces of Shiraz

Shiraz from Australia has become one of the most sought after red wines by wine consumers due to its fruity and easy drinking style. However Shiraz, known as Syrah in France, has its’ origins and has been grown in the Rhone Valley for hundreds of years. Shiraz and Syrah is the same grape but are quite different in styles depending on the region and the winemakers’ intervention.

Syrah is dark skinned and develops a powerful, full bodied red that is high in alcohol in warmer regions. Over 350,000 acres of Syrah are grown around the world. Syrah is an offshoot of two rather obscure grapes; Duresa (red) and Mondeuse Blanche (white). Recent research has shown that the Syrah vine was not imported into France from the Middle East but had its’ origins in Northern Rhone.

In France it is the main grape used in Northern Rhone and is used as a blending grape in Southern Rhone including the famous Chateauneuf- du - Pape region. This region was heavily planted to white grapes in the 1960’s and 1970’s as the most popular wines in this period was white wines. This changed in the 1980’s when popular wine critic Robert Parker began to review the Syrah based wine favourably and gave some wines high scores including a few perfect 100 point wines. In 1968 only 7000 acres of Syrah was planted in Rhone, however now it has over 125,000 acres, the most of any country in the world including Australia.

There are smaller sub regions in Northern Rhone that produce a range of styles. The wines of Cote Rotie are perfumed and quite soft whereas the wines of Hermitage are tannic and display mineral and earthy tones. Compared to the Shiraz style of Australia, Syrahs’ from Rhone are generally more tannic, elegant, smoky and display restrained fruit. Their aroma and taste profile include dark berries/ blackcurrant, violets, earth, leather smoke and coffee.

James Busby brought Syrah vine cuttings to Australia in 1832. They found their way to the Barossa valley and were well established by 1860. At first they named wines made from Syrah, “Hermitage”, but it was confusing since the Hermitage region in France also produced Syrah so they changed the name to Shiraz. Shiraz is grown in generally warmer regions in Australia and therefore the berries are riper and sweeter. This produces wines that are fruit driven, high in alcohol, low in tannin, more spicy than smoky and have a slightly sweet impression on the palate. Australia has the second highest plantings of Shiraz in the world at about 101,000 acres.

Shiraz aromas and tastes include dark berry/ blackcurrant and blueberry, pepper, chocolate, violet and newer oak influences’ such as vanilla and cedar. Cooler region produces Shiraz that displays spicier tones than the richer fruit wines of warmer regions within South east Australia.

Shiraz is sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. This gives the blended wine more strength and stronger flavours in the middle of your mouth. As in Northern Rhone, Shiraz is often blended with the white grape, Viognier which increases the aromatics and gives the wine a slight orchard fruit impression. Another interesting use of Shiraz in Australia is in sparkling wine. This rose coloured wine has strawberry and raspberry notes and is very refreshing but dry or off-dry.

Whether you call it Syrah or Shiraz, these wines come in a variety of styles to suit any palate and are extremely food friendly. As most wine consumers are familiar with Australian Shiraz be adventurous and try a softer version from the Northern Rhone, your taste buds will thank you.

Burgundy Winemaking Began 250 Million Years Ago

Burgundians are firm believers of terrior, the notion that grapes and wine are more than a commodity; they are an expression of nature, man and wine. Terrior is a combination of the grape type, climatic conditions, soil and subsoil and the know how of the grape growers and the winemaker. This philosophy is reflected in their wines. Terrior creates Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines that are higher in acidity, floral notes and minerality, and lower in pure fruit expression, alcohol level and new oak components compared to their new world counterparts.

It all began 250 million years ago when the Burgundy region of France was an inland sea. Throughout millions of years the remains of generations of sea life were layered under the sea. A large geological upheaval in the area to the west pushed the stratas of subsoil up in the valley resulting in various layers of chalky and limestone soils that give Burgundian wines their complexity and uniqueness.

Thirty years after the death of Christ, the Romans first planted vines in the Burgundy region. However it was the monks of Cluny and Citeaux that developed methods that worked the vines into producing superior wines. Most of the wines during this time were consumed by the clergy and locals. The rest of the world was ignorant of these wines until the dukes of Burgundy in the 15th century made their wines known throughout France and the rest of Europe.

Today Burgundy wines stand out as the best in the world. They only produce 3% of the wines of France but the value of their wines is more than 1.1 billion Euros. The qualities of the wines are directly related to the location of the vineyard. There are four levels of quality; regional, village, premier cru and grand cru. Regional wines cost about 25-30 dollars whereas grand cru can command prices well into the hundreds of dollars.

As the wines increase in price and statute they increase in extract, complexity and finish. The aromas and flavours expected from a Chardonnay can range from white fleshed fruit, flowers and almonds to minerality, honey, dried fruits, toasted almonds and hazelnuts. In Pinot Noir expect raspberry, cherry, mushroom, forest floor, spice, herb and vanilla. Grand Cru Pinot Noir is an emotional beverage; it is silky and woven with primordial tastes of the complexity of earth and time.

If you are beginning to explore the wines of Burgundy a good place to start are the regional wines that are referred to as Bourgogne Blanc and Burgundy Rouge. They will give you a taste of what to expect from Burgundy. I suggest Bourgogne Blanc, 2007, Antonin Rodet as a quality Chardonnay that exhibits apple, pear and floral aromas followed by almond and slight hints of minerality. Fresh and bright, it’s an excellent wine for seafood and chicken dishes. For an introductory Pinot Noir I recommend Bourgogne Rouge, 2006, Domaine Naigeon with attractive blackcurrant, cherry and raspberry notes. It has moderate tannins and a refreshing sense of acidity that is ideal for our west coast salmon.

If those wines strike your fancy you may want to taste the next level up. The Mercurey, 2005, Domaine Meix Foulot offers a complex tapestry of full bodied red fruits and robust yet restrained tannins. This Pinot Noir is incredibly smooth and polished and is an ideal match for lamb or venison dishes.

You will never tire of the wonderful array of Burgundy wines, take your time to enjoy these wonders after all its’ taken over 250 million years to make them.

BC Wines Have Come a Long Way

You’ve come a long way baby! That famous advertising line from the 1970’s pretty well sums up the growth of quality of BC wines from the early 1970’s to present. We often take for granted the type of BC wines we enjoy now such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Fourty years ago British Columbians’ had to endure sweet sparkling wines made from Concord grapes and fortified wines whose alcohol levels disguised the off flavours and foxy aromas. If you wanted a good bottle of wine you had to buy imported French or German wines.

It was only in the mid-seventies that grape growers backed up by government research grants began to experiment with premium vinifera grapes that produced world class wines that mostly came from Europe at that time. Thousands of different vines were planted and only a few showed promise. The vines selected were producing predominately white grapes. A few brave souls ventured into growing and producing top quality wines in the late seventies lead by such wineries as Sumac Ridge and Gray Monk. These wineries along with eleven others was the sum total of wineries in 1984.

In 1988 Canada signed the North American Free Trade agreement and the BC wine industry lost their long term government subsidies. Without these subsidies the wine industry as it stood could no longer compete with imported quality wines from around the world. Many left the business but a few pioneers realized the potential of the Okanagan and persevered.

Fast forward to 2009 where over 140 wineries now call BC home. Five hundred different wines are released every season and the list keeps growing every year. BC produces some of the best aromatic style wines in the world lead by Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Ehrenfelser, Kerner and Siegerrebe.

The 2008 vintage is no exception and I’ve reviewed a few of the newly released wines some of which will be poured at the “Best of BC Wines Uncorked” wine tasting event at the Port Moody Art Centre on June 13th. Over eighteen BC wineries will be pouring over 50 samples including new releases so you can taste for yourself the progress BC wines have made, for more information on the event and to support this fundraiser for the Port Moody Arts Centre visit www.bcuncorked.ca

An annual favourite is Cedar Creeks’ Ehrenfelser 2008. This years’ version is excellent displaying peach, nectarine and lovely citrus flavours. Off- dry and perfectly balanced, a nice treat for a hot summer day.

The Naramata bench is home to Kettle Valley Winery, one of the best kept secrets in the Okanagan. The 2008 Kettle Valley Gewürztraminer is a perfect example of the Alsatian style of this varietal. Medium bodied with spice, lychee and grapefruit this wine has power and grace.

One of the most established quality wine producers is Quails’ Gate Winery in the Kelowna area. Quails’ Gate 2008 Dry Riesling is a perfect balance of acidity and sweetness. Add lime/lemon with tropical notes of melon, pineapple and minerality this wine is sure to please this summer.

Church & State Winery Aims High

I first discovered Church and State Winery a few years ago while visiting Victoria. The facilities were impressive but the wines were average at best. New owners and a new direction have put the winery on the map and a move to the Okanagan has increased the visibility of Church & State. The wines are outstanding now due to the hands on approach that is the philosophy of owner Kim Pullen and winemaker Bill Dyer. Kim Pullen’s lofty goal is to become one of the top three wineries in BC in terms of quality. What I like about Church & State is that their wines are not priced out of context unlike other BC wineries that are charging double or more for the same level of quality.

The winery produces only 14,000 cases of premium and ultra premium wines from about 121 acres, a large majority sourced from Coyote Bowl vineyards in the South Okanagan. The premium grapes are just the starting point, a skilled and experienced winemaker is also important. Enter Jim Dyer, a winemaker from Napa, California, who has 27 years of experience producing top wines.

They produce a line of wines named Church Mouse for under the $20 range which is a bargain. The rest are all premium and ultra premium offerings. Last week I had the opportunity to sample the wines of Church & State and have reviewed my favourites.

A super smooth and off dry Rose, the Cabernet Franc Rose 2008 is an approachable wine with cranberry and light strawberry notes. It is creamy and quite full on the palate ending in a clean finish. 87 Points.

A stellar example of what BC Chardonnay can offer is the Gravelbourg Chardonnay 2007. It is light golden in colour with a peach, pineapple and tropical nose. Very creamy and full bodied in the mouth it picks up flavours of vanilla, toast and hazelnut. Very well balanced, this wine was aged in used French oak for 12 months. 90 Points.

On to the reds and one of the best Merlots I’ve ever encountered from BC. The 2007 Merlot is an intensely perfumed wine with aromas of dark cherry and plum overlaid by a bouquet of olive, spice and toasty vanilla and cedar notes. The palate is an explosion of ripe, juicy, fruit with a long lingering finish and polished tannins. Don’t miss out on this one! 92 Points.

The Coyote Bowl Syrah 2007 has a deep ruby colour and the aroma of cassis, black cherry, pepper, spice and a meaty, earthy flavour. Very smooth ending in a long, expressive finish. 88 Points.

The Quintessential 2006 is Church & States’ top priced wine and is only available in high end restaurants or at their winery. A classic blend of Bordeaux grapes, it offers up brambly black fruit, coffee, cedar and a smoky, leathery finish. It is beautifully balanced with a long extracted finish. 93 Points.

Church & State Winery aims high and delivers. Stay tuned because Kim Pullen and Bill Dyer are not far away from their ultimate goal.

Add a Splash of Wine for Flavour

Cooking with wine is one of the best ways to add flavour and balance to a dish. Along with salt and pepper it is the most versatile ingredients in the kitchen.

The reason wine is added or used in cooking is to enhance the dish without using extra salt or fat, and to add an extra dimension of flavour. The good news for people with a low tolerance for sulphites is that simmering removes sulphites from wine. Wine is used as a marinade or as a cooking liquid but beware of cooking wines sold in supermarkets, they contain a high amount of salt and other additives you may not want in your dish. Do not add wine to a dish at the end of the cooking process, it needs to cook at least 5 to 10 minutes to blend into the dish, otherwise the wines’ strong flavour will overwhelm the recipe. The only exception to this rule is fortified wines such as Brandy and Marsala which are added to at the end of the cooking process and finish the recipe.

The general rule to use when purchasing wine for cooking is don’t add anything that you would not drink by itself. Inexpensive, poorly made wine will not help in adding flavour to a recipe, it is better not to use any at all. That doesn’t mean that you have to buy an expensive bottle, a well thought out fifteen dollar bottle will work out nicely, and you can drink a glass while cooking or enjoy it with your meal.

Dry white wines are generally used for cream and cheese sauces or poultry and fish dishes. Reds are used for brown sauces and red meat recipes.

When the recipe calls for a dry red wine consider a Malbec or Merlot for full flavoured, longer simmering dishes. To deglaze a pan or for pasta sauces look to lighter styles of wine. I love cooking with Chianti from Italy, it brings pasta sauces to life.

Fortified wines are a great way to add intense and bold flavours to your sauces. They have a longer shelf life than table wines but make sure that they are still sound before adding them to your recipe. Many are available in half sized bottles, ideal for cooking. Meat based casseroles and slow cookers are making a comeback and Ports are perfect for these types of foods. Use an authentic dry Sherry when sautéing or adding to stews.

One of my favourite recipes is pan frying shrimp in butter and a splash of olive oil and garlic and then adding some dry sherry and sea salt, it takes less than five minutes and the results will impress your guests. Experiment and create your own recipe and use for wine in the kitchen and I’m sure you will agree that wine adds a certain punch to dishes.

Lawrence Herder on the Cutting Edge of BC Wines

Lawrence Herder is an anti-Sideways kind of guy, he loves Merlot and it shows. Herder Merlot is one of the most complex and developed Merlots’ that I’ve every tasted from BC grapes. His other wines are equally good, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

It all began a few weeks ago when I had the honour and privilege of meeting and interviewing Lawrence at his winery in the South Similkameen Valley just west of the South Okanagan Valley. The winery overlooks 14 acres of pristine vineyards and has a stunning view of the entire valley.

It was at the end of a long day for Lawrence, he had just harvested tons of pears from a few acres of trees that remained on the property when he purchased it. Then Lawrence recounted the beginning of his winemaking career: “Winemaking for me started in California when I was 14 years old, I found a home wine making kit in the attic and thought it would make an interesting project.” Unfortunately he did not read the instructions carefully and bottled the wine a few days after beginning fermentation and the bottles popped their corks open all over the kitchen. He has come a long way. After graduating from Fresno State specializing in winemaking and viticulture, he spent the next few years in various California vineyards from Sonoma to Paso Robles. The potential of the Similkameen and Okanagan Valleys brought Lawrence and his BC born wife, Sharon, back to the province.

After spending a few years as Winemaker for Jackson-Triggs in the Okanagan, he decided to create his own winery. He searched for the perfect vineyard site in the valley and one day it came up for sale. The vineyards he purchased are near a pocket of high cliffs that hold in the heat during the evening and prolong the ripening process of the grapes. Add to this the layers of well drained and ideal soils, and you have the making of some outstanding fruit.

Vineyard management is equally important to Lawrence as he spends time and spares no expense to maximize the quality of grapes in the vineyard. He then crafts his wine using state of the art equipment and years of experience and knowledge into the final product. Herder has many different oak barrels in his cellar, each one unique in its flavour profile. Like a giant jigsaw puzzle he blends different barrels until he is satisfied that the final blend is the best it can be.

Herder does not have to answer to a marketing department or accountants, he is his own critic and tough on himself to produce the best. They produce only about 3000 cases a year and the wines sell themselves without a large advertising or marketing budget and that suits Lawrence just fine. After tasting Herder wines I complemented Lawrence on the high quality of the wines. He turned to me, smiled, and said, “We just make wine” and to that I say, “Damn fine wine indeed.”

A decade of change in the world of wine

I had planned to write about the wine high-lights of 2009, but then realized as we usher in a new decade that the last ten years have seen a myriad of changes in the world of wine. Here are my picks of the most important wine events of the decade. It seems the only constant in wine is change, and the 2000’s were no exception.

The one event that stands out is the death of cork and the emergence of the screw cap. Producers and consumers alike have found that screw caps are the ideal enclosure for a large majority of wine. It started out with large Australian wineries who were tired of the cork taint that spoil wine. It took a while for consumers the get used to $50 bottles of wine being sold under cap. Prior to this only jug wines had caps but as the decade drew to a close, most wines are now caped. Consumers love the convenience of opening, closing and storing bottles with ease.

Continuing the theme to the next important watershed is the rise and slight fall of Australia as one of the most important wine exporting countries in the world. Lead by such wines as Yellow Tail at the beginning of the decade, Australia and especially their ultra fruity Shiraz style, took the wine world by storm. Yellow Tail Shiraz is the biggest wine seller of the decade as consumers embrace the sweet fruit and soft side of red wine. As the decade closes, however, Australia is starting to lose its luster and the wine export threat of Spain, Portugal, Chile, Argentina and South Africa have taken centre spot. Australia will always be a major force in wine, but I believe they have hit their peak.

BC wines continue to evolve for the better as each decade adds experience and vine age to the local wine scene. Now the daring of the BC consumer, it was only fifteen years ago that serious vinifera wines were planted and produced. Consumers have embraced such varietals as Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Bordeaux style blended wines. BC had 13 wineries in 1984 now it is closing in on over 200 and it’s becoming difficult to keep track of all the emerging wineries. I see a bright future for BC wines in the next ten years.

This was also the decade of celebrity wines; from Dan Akroyd and Greg Norman, to Wayne Gretzky and others. Marketing wine this way introduces their fans to wines they may not have tried before and I believe any way to introducing wines to a new market works for me. Look for more of these types of endorsements in the future.

If the past is any indication of the future, the world of wine is headed for new and exciting developments in the next decade. New emerging regions, new blends and types of grapes will just be the beginning. I will be waiting with enthusiasm and my tasting glass in hand.