Burgundy Winemaking Began 250 Million Years Ago

Burgundians are firm believers of terrior, the notion that grapes and wine are more than a commodity; they are an expression of nature, man and wine. Terrior is a combination of the grape type, climatic conditions, soil and subsoil and the know how of the grape growers and the winemaker. This philosophy is reflected in their wines. Terrior creates Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines that are higher in acidity, floral notes and minerality, and lower in pure fruit expression, alcohol level and new oak components compared to their new world counterparts.

It all began 250 million years ago when the Burgundy region of France was an inland sea. Throughout millions of years the remains of generations of sea life were layered under the sea. A large geological upheaval in the area to the west pushed the stratas of subsoil up in the valley resulting in various layers of chalky and limestone soils that give Burgundian wines their complexity and uniqueness.

Thirty years after the death of Christ, the Romans first planted vines in the Burgundy region. However it was the monks of Cluny and Citeaux that developed methods that worked the vines into producing superior wines. Most of the wines during this time were consumed by the clergy and locals. The rest of the world was ignorant of these wines until the dukes of Burgundy in the 15th century made their wines known throughout France and the rest of Europe.

Today Burgundy wines stand out as the best in the world. They only produce 3% of the wines of France but the value of their wines is more than 1.1 billion Euros. The qualities of the wines are directly related to the location of the vineyard. There are four levels of quality; regional, village, premier cru and grand cru. Regional wines cost about 25-30 dollars whereas grand cru can command prices well into the hundreds of dollars.

As the wines increase in price and statute they increase in extract, complexity and finish. The aromas and flavours expected from a Chardonnay can range from white fleshed fruit, flowers and almonds to minerality, honey, dried fruits, toasted almonds and hazelnuts. In Pinot Noir expect raspberry, cherry, mushroom, forest floor, spice, herb and vanilla. Grand Cru Pinot Noir is an emotional beverage; it is silky and woven with primordial tastes of the complexity of earth and time.

If you are beginning to explore the wines of Burgundy a good place to start are the regional wines that are referred to as Bourgogne Blanc and Burgundy Rouge. They will give you a taste of what to expect from Burgundy. I suggest Bourgogne Blanc, 2007, Antonin Rodet as a quality Chardonnay that exhibits apple, pear and floral aromas followed by almond and slight hints of minerality. Fresh and bright, it’s an excellent wine for seafood and chicken dishes. For an introductory Pinot Noir I recommend Bourgogne Rouge, 2006, Domaine Naigeon with attractive blackcurrant, cherry and raspberry notes. It has moderate tannins and a refreshing sense of acidity that is ideal for our west coast salmon.

If those wines strike your fancy you may want to taste the next level up. The Mercurey, 2005, Domaine Meix Foulot offers a complex tapestry of full bodied red fruits and robust yet restrained tannins. This Pinot Noir is incredibly smooth and polished and is an ideal match for lamb or venison dishes.

You will never tire of the wonderful array of Burgundy wines, take your time to enjoy these wonders after all its’ taken over 250 million years to make them.